Archive for September, 2008
TIPS FOR USING A (HAND TOOL TYPE)
TILE AND GLASS CUTTER (Like the AMAZING TILE AND GLASS CUTTER and other similar tools)
1. Oil the cutting wheel 1st time and every 5 or 6 cuts. One drop of
any good oil is ok.
2. Cut tile or glass only on a firm, level surface such as on well
supported 3/4″ plywood. An old, sturdy wood table works well
also. Make sure the work surface is clean and free of splinters
or debris, such as glass or tile chips!
3. Press hard enough when “scoring” ( cutting ) tile or glass to hear
a “scrunching” noise. Use less pressure on very thin glass or tile.
When scoring the material the anvil is up and the cutting wheel, of
course, is contacting the work material. Likewise, when “breaking”
( separating ) the material (after scoring) the anvil is up and the glass
or tile is between the anvil and the lower bar. The lower bar is the bar
the cutting wheel is located on.
4. Be careful! Adults only please. Glass, and even tile, can give very
severe cuts. Don’t carry large sheets of glass yourself. Get help and
use proper tools. Respect the work material, but do not be afraid of it.
I have cut glass for many years but ( cross my fingers ) have never
been really hurt–nor has anyone I have instructed. Almost all of my
“ouches” have been from glass or tile chips, not the work material
itself.
Separating the glass on the score line (called “breaking” or “running”
5. Practice 1st on scrap glass or tile until you are more comfortable with
the tool. Be aware that this type of tool is best suited for cutting larger (over about 3” by 3”) pieces of glass. For stained glass work you will also need a fine point , pencil type tool like an oil filled glass cutting tool.
6. Enjoy! It’s a blast to make beautiful mosiac tile pieces and odd shaped
glass objects. And if your kid breaks your basement window you can
replace it yourself for a fraction of the hardware store cost!
Thanks for looking.
Jerry ( Manager/Author Crafting Glass.com)
Note: This tool has an adjustment for helping “break” (separate) very thin glass or tile. The anvil can be adjusted downward so the “gap” between the anvil and the lower jaw is less. This is only necessary when breaking very thin material, otherwise keep the anvil in the
position it was in when you received the tool. To adjust the anvil grasp a “wing” of the anvil with pliers and turn it downward ( closer to the lower jaw ) while holding the handles of the tool firmly with your other hand. Remember to adjust the anvil back to it’s original position before breaking thicker glass or tile.
Sep
30
Beads of Love
Duration : 1 min 48 sec
Sep
30
Six classic TV Test Patterns in 4:3 format, in a quick collage. Not suitable for quality testing, more to confirm that the Revver service is working. Added Note: I think some of these might make intriguing (even if a bit weird) stained glass patterns! Jerry
Duration : 12 sec
Recreations of different color test pattern designs used from the 1960’s to the 1980’s. The tones heard are at -12 dB and appear as follows: 1050 Hz, 440 Hz, 732 Hz, 1 kHz, 450 Hz, 930 Hz, 425 Hz, 394.5 Hz and 960 Hz. TV station logos and/or station info not included in any of the patterns. Added Note: I think some of these would make intriguing (even if a bit weird) stained glass patterns! Jerry
Duration : 1 min 15 sec
Windows became a fixture of European architecture after 2000 BC, when Egyptians were able to perfect the art of glassmaking. As its popularity spread, so did the development of window cleaning tools.
While the first window cleaning products were no more complicated than rags and water, the earliest recorded “specialised” window cleaning tool is the horse-sweat squeegee from 5th century Greece. Initially used in the stables to groom and rub down animals, people realised that the long handles and absorbent material would also be very effective at window cleaning.
In the 20th century, the refinement of chemical and manufacturing processes brought about a rapid development of window cleaning tools and window cleaning products. In 1936, Ettore Sceccone invented the single-blade window cleaning squeegee. Other window cleaning product breakthroughs helped eliminate the common problem of water spots and streaks. These were the lint-free rags, micro-fiber window cleaning towels, and later window cleaning clay foams. These window cleaning products all promised to wipe off dirt while leaving a clear, flawless, speck-free window.
Soon even good old soap wasn’t good enough for window cleaning. When the automobile industry introduced tinted windows, it was necessary to develop a detergent that wouldn’t destroy or scratch this special kind of glass. This led to the ammonia-free window cleaning products, which was non-corrosive but was still effective in removing the stubborn water spots that often cling to the wind shield. This also led to window cleaning detergents for stained glass windows (which was a popular decorative fixture in the 1960’s) and frosted windows.
Today’s window cleaning detergents even promise to protect the glass from water spots by leaving a very thin wax that seals out moisture. The advantage of this window cleaning product is that it reflects light, creating a beautiful shine and making your house look literally “sparkling new.”
Homeowners can even purchase window cleaning kits that include fully automated window cleaning squeegees (“rotate to reach all the corners!”), no-drip window cleaning rags, disposable window cleaning towels, or even “soapless” window cleaning mops (the soap is activated by the water). Some of the window cleaning tools even have lightweight fiberglass handles, making window cleaning so much easier on the forearms. Other window cleaning kits include fully-extendable parts for window cleaning out of the way windows.
With all these window cleaning products and tools, the chore of window cleaning became much, much easier. Just in time, too. Modern trends in architecture seem to favor floor-to-ceiling windows that allow massive amount of light to flood the room. Plus, the development of high rises makes window cleaning much more of a logistical challenge. How exactly do you go about window cleaning when you live on the 25th floor of a condominium?
That is why there are companies that offer professional window cleaning services. They use lifts to carry them from floor to floor, while a safety harness prevents any undue accidents (perhaps from skidding on soapy water?). To keep their hands free, the professional window cleaning crew will often carry their tools in a practical pouch slung around their waists.
These people have banded together in professional window cleaning organisations, whose goal is to ensure that proper safety standards are maintained, and also to allow members to share the unique experiences that comes with their job. As part of this movement, these window cleaning organisations also have a code of conduct, newsletters, even conferences. For some people, window cleaning is just a choreâbut for them, window cleaning is a passion.
I learned how to make glass beads several years ago! It's a lot of fun, if you haven't tried it.
Ummm… the point is that this is the "Hobbies and Crafts" category, and people who are interested in such things may be interested in my question. But, you're welcome for the 2 points.
Here is a link that explains the process of making glass beads – melting glass is very addictive!
http://www.squidoo.com/makebeads/
i love glass beads, but i don't know how to make. wont it require kiln or something like that because it invovles fire?
i know i am supposed to answer, but could you give me the names of some good websites which gives info about glass beads?
Why do you need to download? Use you imagination and make your own. I've done gallery glass for 9 years, and never used a pattern. Find something you like, copy it the size you want and go for it. If you blow it, it peels off and you can start over.
without causing any damage to the painted surface
Try using hot water with vinegar to a cloth and wiping dry with a rag!
i ordered some items, never got the items,
Well then, I'll remember not to order art glass suplies from a film company. Thanks for the warning.
I think it has something to do with the notches cut in the back. (see Hyde Steel Wheel Glass Cutter)
the glass cutting wheel is hardened steel with tiny bits of diamond chips imbeded. it penetrates the surface of the glass and weaken it and then cracks easily.
as for the hand not being cut, its not a knife, its like the diamond you ware on your finger. you can't cut yourself with your diamond, but you can cut glass with your diamond because diamond is harder than glass….TRY IT!